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MAPS Front Endpaper, After Page 184, Back Endpaper FOREWORD AUTHOR'S INTRODUCTION PROLOGUE PART I BACK TO THE WAll 1994-1998 1 My Year at China Daily 2 Back to the Wall 3 George's Great Wall 4 Dirt Road Cycling to Xi'an 5 Areas Closed to Foreigners 6 Shanxi to Shaanxi 7 At 'China Features' 8 Hiking on History. 9 The Elusive Nine Window Tower 10 Bricks and Mortar 11 The British at Gubeikou 12 Introducing Dr. William Edgar Geil 13 Our Farmhouse Beside the Wall PART II GUARDIAN OF THE WALL 1998-2007 14 Beautifying the Great Wall 15 Where is the Great Wall's Curator? 16 Reaching History and Heaven 17 The First 'WildWall Weekend' 18 Defending the Great Wall from Modern Attack 19 Millennium Moments 20 Wall versus Wild 21 The Four Wall Seasons 22 Rescue of the Fallen 23 The Great Wall at the Norwegian Embassy 24 The Watchtowers of Laiyuan County 25 The Wall of Thieves 170 26 The Endangered Great Wall Landscape 27 In Search of the First Great Wall 28 A Forbidden Great Wall? 29 We Are Volunteers Too! 30 Blizzard in Ningxia 31 The Wonder of the Wall 32 The Wall of Two Williams 33 The Great Wall at the British Embassy 34 Rephotography and More 35 Some Unexpected News 36 A Day at the Palace 37 A Capital Exhibition 38 The Great Wall's 'Period of Grandeur' 39 At the Heart of the Dragon 40 Search for the Wooden Wall 41 The Gobi Inferno PART III AMBASSADOR FOR THE WALL 2008-2020 42 Our Olympic Year Chances 43 The Great Wall in Doylestown 44 The Genghis Khan Wall Question 45 The Terrific and the Terrible 46 A Few of My Favourite Wall Things 47 At the Building of the Great Wall 48 Secret History of the Eastern Steppe 49 Writing on the Wall 50 Flying the Great Wall EPILOGUE ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS